Costuming Guidelines
Our goals as a historical reenactment group are best met by outwardly portraying the people we represent as best as we can. This is done through several aspects of our performance, but the first, that which is on the forefront, are the clothes that we wear. My personal philosophy in reenactment kit is to strive for 100% accuracy knowing we may only meet 85%. If we set our standards to 85%, knowing that 100% is unattainable, we’re more likely to only meet 60%. So the standards we set here are going to be higher than what’s been acceptable in the past, but through this we’ll see growth in the faire community and reenactment circle.
Our first objective is to be met immediately in that these things will not be allowed at the next faire attended by any standing member. However, all these things are free and easily accommodated. They are the following:
- No earrings will be allowed for men or women.
- No modern “Celtic” jewelry or other non-period/culturally/station inappropriate jewelry including faire favors.
- No obvious modern makeup. If others can tell you’re wearing it, it’s too much.
- No sunglasses.
- Modern hairstyles, visible tattoos and piercings must be covered.
The next objective was set with a Valhalla 2010 deadline. All standing members participating in this faire must have an appropriate léine made of linen in a white, off-white or possibly saffron color. No pleats or drawstrings on the tops of the arms will be approved from here on out nor will other colors or fabrics. The léine is our most basic garment and the one that deserves priority over other kit pieces which is why it is the first slated for uniform change in the guild. Resources for creating a period appropriate léine will be provided as well as patterns and a chance to obtain linen at a reasonable cost. Old léinte which no longer meet the current standards will be allowed to be worn by new and prospective members as well as guests after Valhalla 2010 but not by standing members.
The other kit piece that has undergone a change, as the deadline has passed, is women’s head coverings. Since all modern hairstyles and colors must be covered, and many of us have them, linen headdresses that fully do so must be worn by women, regardless of their character’s marital status. Headdresses that fully cover hair are the linen turbans, veils or long kertches. Turbans are the easiest to make and wear and will cover all sorts of modern hair issues. At the January guild meeting we’ll be showing the ladies how to wear them if they opt for this style. Women who chose to go uncovered and have period appropriate hair must be approved so as to not upset the proportion of uncovered versus covered heads. It will be reserved for younger women (maidens).
The following will be the standards for standing members. While deadlines for compliance have yet to be put into place any new kit items made should conform to the new requirements and any planned kit changes can be implemented with these in mind.
Men:
Men must wear at minimum a léine made of linen without drawstrings or pleats on the top of the arms of white, off-white or saffron color. The léine should reach the knees when belted up so as to not expose any undergarments. The sleeves should reach the wrist and no longer so that they may be easily pushed out of the way for duties or drilling. The “bag” of the sleeve should not be excessive and reach no longer than the knee when the arms are held straight out from the body. Longer sleeves are neither practical or documented among 16th C Gaels.
Over the Léine, a cóta or ionar may be worn of leather or wool. It is preferred that the men have a wool ionar or cóta before investing in an additional leather one as the leather is a form of light armor and one should have “everyday” wear for non-military use. Ionair may be decorated in non-knotwork embroidery or fringe, Celtic knotwork is not documented on 16th C clothing and will not be allowed. Leather outerwear may be tooled or otherwise decorated per the DeHeere watercolors and sketches.
Men may wear wool trews of a solid color with the Anglo style Dungiven jacket if station appropriate.
Men’s footwear is limited to low top period shoes of leather, only horsemen are permitted to wear boots with their kit and this is limited in camp to those with prior approval. While Irish men are often seen barefoot, for safety reasons we request you remain shod during an event. Knitted or wool cuthose stockings can be worn with shoes or you may go barelegged.
Irish men are often depicted with bare heads and this is acceptable in camp, however, all modern hair styles should be covered by a documented period hat such as the bonnet, the “onion hat”, a wool cap or any other culturally appropriate head covering.
Women:
All women must wear at minimum a léine made of linen without drawstrings or pleats on the arms of white, off-white or saffron color. The léine should be ankle length under your gown because, while it doesn’t show, it allows for modesty in warm weather and holds the wool outer garments away from the legs. The léine may be of the “Irish style” bag sleeved variety or a fitted sleeve in the continental fashion. When worn with an open sleeved gown, the bag sleeve style is more identifiably Irish. The neckline may be either a keyhole, gathered-in-band or a scoop neck as seen in the DeHeere watercolors.
The gown should be made of wool in either the continental tucked up kirtle with an open front, much like the medieval cotehardie, or the gathered waist closed front Shinrone style. The Shinrone style must be closed in the front, blending of the two styles will not be acceptable as their overall silhouette is very different. Gowns must be closed using spiral lacing per the period standard and no metal grommets may show. Internal lacing rings are preferred, however buttons and lacing holes are allowed as long as they are of an appropriate style. Sleeves are required and may be open and hanging or closed but never detachable. Variations from the documented styles must be approved as well as other fabrications. Any documented color is acceptable.
A petticoat is required regardless of whether your gown is open or closed front and a léine is never acceptable as an underskirt. Skirts may be gathered or gored and may be of lightweight wool or linen in any approved color.
Women who are married or of station must cover their hair with a linen kertch, turban or veils. All modern hairstyles, including bangs, and colors must be completely hidden regardless of marital status or station. Women did not cut a fringe/bangs in the 16th C. so they should be pinned back, not worn on the forehead. Unmarried women and girls with long hair of a natural color may wear their hair braided and adorned but not free flowing. The impracticalities of long flowing hair in the 16th C warranted measures to keep it out of the way when doing any household duties, especially fire related ones, and this goes for our camp and household as well. Acceptable variations include the coiled braids worn with a circlet or a decorative hat. All other hats and caps should be worn over any linen headdresses.
Women should wear knitted or cuthose wool stockings and low top leather shoes of a period style. Boots are not acceptable for regular wear by women unless you’re currently participating in an equestrian event. Mary janes, turnshoes and latchets are all acceptable styles. Knitted stockings made similar to the Carnamoyle extant are preferred, cuthose worn with garters are easier to make, however.
Unisex Accessories:
Belts should be narrow and leather or jeweled if appropriate for your station. Only men’s weapon belts may be wider based on extant fittings and depictions. All “fashion” belts should be no more than 1 1/4″ wide. Baldrics must be approved before wearing by your Captain.
A brat may be worn as outwear should weather permit. The brat may not be belted onto the body and should be solid colored wool or fur, not tartan. It may be rectangular or a half circle, short or full body length but not overly voluminous. Remember, you would have to carry this on your person daily.
Jewelery may be worn by both men and women as long as it’s approved and documented. No earrings may be worn by either sex nor will any modern or “Celtic knotwork” pieces be allowed. All jewelery must be culturally and station appropriate.
Scarves of silk or linen, linen aprons, handkerchiefs, baskets, coin purses, sacks, and satchels are all accessories that make your character believable and offer practical uses while at an event. Feel free to add them to your kit within reason, but avoid looking like a vagabond or tinker. Be mindful of your station when accessorizing. Cups, plates, bowls, flatware and other eating utensils should be left off your person in a basket or in camp. Knives are acceptable on both sexes but should not be kept in women’s cleavage.
Most importantly, have fun with your characters and make them real people. We portray the rule rather than the exception, but we also want to avoid looking like a uniformed cookie cutter army of Irish while still maintaining historically accurate facades. Any questions may be directed to the costume director or guildmaster and all final decision will be at their discretion.
Pictorial examples of 16th C. Gaelic Fashion:
A Noblewoman and Poor Man
A Townswoman and Young Unmarried Girl
Resources for purchasing fittings, footwear, patterns and accessories can be found here.
